On Sunday afternoon, we visited James Madison's Montpelier; early Monday morning, we toured Monticello. Maybe I just root for the underdog, or maybe I just prefer Madison to Jefferson, but I enjoyed Montpelier more. Monticello is very much like its creator: prissy, mannered, over stylized, too clever by half. Montpelier was somehow more . . . is stolid the word? Not quite, but you get the drift.